![]() ![]() TheyĪre not intended to fully recondition bits - resulting from 'weld shop drilling'.įor damaged bits - old school bench skills is a must. These machines work best by incrementally touching-up a new/perfect bit. This is a vast improvement over the 500SP - but still involves a learning curve. The only upside - the stone sharpens well.ĭD solved the orienting problem with a secondaryĪdjustment mode that allows discreet 'advance/retard'. Regardless of size - you have to cheat 'advance or retard' the bit in the orienting 375 is a struggle to orient for a 'workable' relief angle. It will pay many hrs over your career.ĭD first consumer machine was the 500SP with. It is well worth the hr or so it will take to perfect your grinding tehneque. On broken bits I can reestablish a new point in about 5 minutes or less depending on the size of the bit. Once you master it you can sharpen a bit in about 1 minute. Make sure you grind the relief back at the same time or you will hit the relief before you contact the point when drilling. Fine tune it as per the gage directs you to. Do no more than 2 grinds on one side of the point then go to the other side. start grinding at the cutting edge and role the bit away from the cutting edge removing the relief metal. Start the grind by positioning one side of the point horizontal to the grinding wheel. The gage is used to make sure you are in the center and have the correct angle on both sides of the drill point. I will do my best to describe how to grind a bit. Once you master how to grind one it is very fast. Its just faster to sharpen bits by hand using a gage. One of these and a bench grinder with a well taken care of wheel is way faster than a drill doctor ( I am not knocking them, they have their place ) I have 2 drill doctors and never use them. ![]()
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